Sometimes you just gotta be there, part II

Technology, surf reports, cams, wind reports, they are great tools, but even they have their limits.
Sometimes it takes a little imagination and a willingness to go to the beach anyway.

Today, in the dentist's parking lot, the news was not good: Swell 1.6 ft; cams looking flat; wind — not even on the menu. I'm a type-A-something. I don't like to sit around during the day, not even on a beach, I prefer to be active, moving (note to self...learn to relax a bit more).

So when M got out of her appointment with the tooth fairy, I figured, "heck let's go anyway and just take a walk along the beach."

Now the beach on a sunny September day is not so bad. In fact it's glorious. Maybe a little chilly and the water definitely wetsuit-worthy, but that didn't stop a few people from taking a dip in just their swimshorts anyway.

And as we walked I noticed that out of the pervading illusion of general flatness, a small left swell was dishing up long lines of breaking 3 footers and the occasional 4+ foot wave.

Wax surfboard, action.

The 8-12 mph NE breeze was not a problem. Haven't had such a fine easy uncrowded left day in years. the main competition was the high density of fishermen, but I went to the east and things were much better there. The waves held their shape with the strength of the swell. There were even one or two 5 foot waves.

Another note to self. Ignore the cams more often* and get more quality surfing time.


*and bring the SUP and a sail just in case. I was SUP sailable, too. although challenging with a drifty side off thing going on.